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Investment Calculator

Written by Isla Whitaker Isla Whitaker
Reviewed by Dr. Nathan Reid Dr. Nathan Reid, PhD in Economics

Last updated 2026-08-13 · 6 cited sources

An investment calculator projects what money will be worth in the future by applying an assumed rate of return to a starting balance and to every contribution added along the way. It is compound-growth arithmetic, not a forecast: the math is exact, and the return you type in is the estimate.

You need four things — the amount you are starting with, the amount you plan to add each month, the annual return you want to assume, and the number of years. What comes back is the projected balance, split into the money you actually paid in and the growth compounding added on top, with that growth also stated as a percentage of your contributions.

The return is the only genuinely uncertain input, and it decides the answer. The same $10,000 start plus $500 a month over 20 years projects to $232,643 at 5% and $394,035 at 9% — a $161,392 spread on identical deposits. Run your plan at more than one rate before you trust any single number.

Investment Calculator

Enter your values below.

Projected Value

Enter your details and press “Calculate” to see your results.

The projection compounds monthly: your starting amount grows by (1 + r)ⁿ while each contribution grows from the month it arrives — the standard future-value math. Everything hinges on the return you assume: it's an input here, not a promise, because no calculator knows future markets. For context, long-run US stock returns have historically averaged high single digits before inflation, bonds less, savings accounts less still — and every year deviates from average, sometimes brutally. Project with a range (5%, 7%, 9%) rather than one number and you'll see how much the assumption drives.

What Is an Investment Calculator?

It answers one question — if I put in this much, for this long, at this rate, what do I end up with? — using two pieces of standard finance arithmetic and nothing else. There is no market data behind it, no forecast, and no opinion about what your money will do.

The Idea in Plain Terms

Compounding means returns earn returns. In the first month a 7% assumption adds about 0.58% to your balance; in the last month of a 20-year plan it adds 0.58% to a balance four times larger, so the same percentage moves far more money. That is the entire mechanism, and it is why the growth line curves while the deposit line stays straight.

The second idea is that every dollar has its own clock. A contribution made in month one compounds for the full 240 months of a 20-year plan; a contribution made in the final month earns essentially nothing before the horizon ends. A projection therefore cannot be contributions multiplied by a single factor — each deposit has to be grown for the time it was actually invested, which is what the annuity half of the formula does.

Left alone at 7%, $10,000 becomes $20,097 after 10 years and $40,387 after 20. The first decade added $10,097; the second added $20,290 — from the same untouched deposit, with nothing extra paid in.

What the Projected Value Is Measured In

The headline number is dollars at the end of your horizon: nominal, pre-tax, and before any fee you have not already subtracted from the assumed return. A projection of $300,851 twenty years out is $300,851 of future money, not of today's buying power, and the section on reading your result shows both ways to convert it.

The last line of the output — "Growth is 131% on top of contributions" — is a different kind of number, and it gets misread often. It is total growth divided by total deposits, for the whole period. On the default plan that is $170,851 of growth against $130,000 paid in. It is not an annual return, and it has no relationship to the 7% you typed.

Investing Versus Saving: What Actually Changes

The arithmetic is identical for a savings account, a certificate of deposit, and a stock portfolio. What changes is where the rate comes from. A CD quotes you a rate in a contract; a diversified portfolio gives you a rate only in hindsight. That is why the field here is labeled "assumed annual return" rather than "interest rate" — the number is a planning assumption you are responsible for, and treating it as a promise is the most common way a projection like this one gets misused.

If your rate is contractual and you want to vary how often it compounds — daily, quarterly, annually — that job belongs to the Compound Interest Calculator.

How Do You Calculate Investment Growth?

Two standard formulas, added together. The first grows the money already sitting there. The second grows a stream of equal monthly deposits, each for the months it was actually invested.

The Formula, Written Out

The whole projection is one line, with the two halves doing separate jobs:

Future value = P × (1 + r)ⁿ  +  PMT × [ (1 + r)ⁿ − 1 ] ÷ r

P   = starting amount
PMT = monthly contribution
r   = assumed annual return ÷ 12, as a decimal   (7% → 0.07 ÷ 12 = 0.00583333)
n   = number of months                          (20 years → 240)

The first term is plain compound growth on the opening balance. The second is the future value of an ordinary annuity — a finite geometric series with common ratio (1 + r), which is why it collapses to that compact fraction instead of requiring 240 separate calculations. "Ordinary" means each deposit lands at the end of its month, so the first $500 earns 239 months of growth, not 240.

If the assumed return is 0%, the fraction divides by zero, so the tool substitutes:

Future value = P + (PMT × n)

That substitution is not cosmetic. Enter $10,000, $500 a month, 0% and 20 years and the result is exactly $130,000 with $0 of growth — the deposit total, which is a useful reference line to compare every other assumption against.

Step by Step

Working the default inputs by hand — $10,000 start, $500 a month, 7% assumed, 20 years:

  • Convert the annual return to a monthly rate: 7 ÷ 1200 = 0.00583333.
  • Convert years to months: 20 × 12 = 240.
  • Compute the growth factor: 1.00583333 raised to the 240th power = 4.038739.
  • Grow the starting amount: $10,000 × 4.038739 = $40,387.
  • Grow the contributions: $500 × (4.038739 − 1) ÷ 0.00583333 = $260,463.
  • Add the two: $40,387 + $260,463 = $300,851.
  • Find what you paid in: $10,000 + ($500 × 240) = $130,000.
  • Subtract to isolate growth: $300,851 − $130,000 = $170,851.

The calculator rounds only at the last step, so hand arithmetic that rounds the growth factor early will land a few dollars away. The order of operations matters more than the precision: the exponent has to be applied before anything is multiplied or subtracted.

Worked Example: $10,000 Plus $500 a Month for 20 Years

These are the values the calculator loads by default, so you can reproduce this run without typing anything:

Inputs: $10,000 start · $500/month · 7%/yr assumed · 20 years
$300,851 projected — $130,000 paid in, $170,851 added by growth

The decomposition is where this example earns its keep. Run the starting amount on its own and $10,000 becomes $40,387, of which $30,387 is growth. Run the contributions on their own and $500 a month becomes $260,463, of which $140,463 is growth. Together they make the $300,851 above, because the two halves of the formula are independent — neither affects the other.

Notice the weighting. The opening $10,000 is 7.7% of everything you pay in, but it produces 13.4% of the final balance. It has been compounding for the full 240 months while the average contribution has been invested for about half that. Money that arrives early is worth more than the same money arriving later, and that ratio is the whole argument for starting before you feel ready.

Using This Investment Calculator Online

Four fields, all of them yours to set. Nothing is pre-filled with a market rate, because a rate baked into a calculator is stale the week after it is typed and wrong for most of the people reading it.

The Four Inputs

  • Starting Amount ($) — what you already have invested. Currency symbols and commas are stripped, so "$10,000" and "10000" both work. Enter 0 if you are starting from nothing.
  • Monthly Contribution ($) — what you add every month, the same amount month after month. Enter 0 for a lump-sum-only projection.
  • Assumed Annual Return (%/yr) — your planning assumption, entered as a percentage. Type 7, not 0.07.
  • Time Horizon (years) — how long the money stays invested before you want the number.

The two money fields are text inputs rather than number inputs on purpose: a number field rejects 0, and 0 is exactly what a lump-sum-only or contributions-only plan needs in the other box.

The Bounds the Tool Enforces

Three checks run before any math, and each returns a plain instruction instead of a number:

  • Both money fields at 0 — "Enter a starting amount, a monthly contribution, or both". With nothing invested there is nothing to project.
  • A return below 0 or above 30 — "Enter an annual return between 0 and 30%". The ceiling is not a claim about what is achievable; it is the point past which a 40-year projection stops informing a decision.
  • A horizon outside 1 to 60 years — "Enter 1–60 years".

One quirk worth knowing: the money fields strip every character that is not a digit or a decimal point, so a minus sign disappears. Typing −500 as a monthly contribution is read as a $500 deposit, not a withdrawal. This tool models accumulation only; it has no drawdown mode.

How to Read Your Result

The output is four lines, and each answers a different question. Read them in order and you get the projection, its assumptions, its composition, and its honesty check.

Line by Line

  • "$300,851" — the projected balance at the end of the horizon, in end-of-period dollars.
  • "After 20 years at 7%/yr (compounded monthly)" — your assumptions echoed back, so a screenshot is still interpretable a month later.
  • "You put in $130,000 ($10,000 start + $500/mo) — growth added $170,851" — the split between your money and the market's contribution.
  • "Growth is 131% on top of contributions" — total growth divided by total deposits. A whole-period ratio, not an annual rate.

If the first line reads 0 and the second is a sentence rather than a date, an input failed validation — read it as an instruction, not a result.

When Growth Overtakes Your Contributions

The milestone worth watching is the year growth becomes larger than everything you have paid in. For $500 a month at 7% with no starting balance it lands in year 19: $237,125 projected, $114,000 contributed, $123,125 of growth. One year earlier the balance is $215,361 on $108,000 paid in, and growth is $107,361 — still behind by $639, at 99% of contributions.

Nothing changes mechanically at that point. It is simply the first year the portfolio does more of the work than you do, and it explains why the middle of a long plan feels so much slower than the end.

Nominal Dollars, and How to Convert Them

The projection is nominal, so $300,851 in 20 years is not $300,851 of today's groceries. There are two defensible ways to fix that, and they answer different questions:

  • Deflate the result. Divide by (1 + inflation) raised to the years. At 3% over 20 years that factor is 1.81, turning $300,851 into about $166,574 of today's purchasing power. This answers what the balance will buy — and it assumes your $500 stays $500 forever, losing real value every year.
  • Run the tool at a real return instead. Subtract inflation from the nominal assumption — 7% minus roughly 3% gives about 4% — and the same plan projects $205,613. That figure is already in today's dollars, but it quietly assumes you raise your contribution with inflation each year.

Neither is wrong; they model different behavior, which is why they differ by nearly $40,000. The actual error is mixing conventions — projecting a nominal balance and then comparing it to what you spend today.

To convert a projected balance into today's money without doing the exponent by hand, use the Inflation Calculator.

Investment Growth Chart

Every row below is this calculator's own output: $500 a month, nothing to start, 7% assumed. The deposits climb in a straight line — $6,000 a year, every year. The balance does not.

YearsYou put inProjected valueGrowth addedGrowth as share of balance
5$30,000$35,796$5,79616%
10$60,000$86,542$26,54231%
15$90,000$158,481$68,48143%
20$120,000$260,463$140,46354%
25$150,000$405,036$255,03663%
30$180,000$609,985$429,98570%
35$210,000$900,527$690,52777%
40$240,000$1,312,407$1,072,40782%

Read the last column. By year 40 growth is 82% of the balance and your own deposits are the minority shareholder. The five years between 35 and 40 add $411,880 — more than the entire first twenty years produced.

The Same Plan at Different Assumed Returns

$500 a month, no starting balance, held for 10, 20 and 30 years. Every cell in a column represents the same deposits; only the assumption changes.

Assumed return10 years20 years30 years
4%$73,625$183,387$347,025
5%$77,641$205,517$416,129
6%$81,940$231,020$502,258
7%$86,542$260,463$609,985
8%$91,473$294,510$745,180
9%$96,757$333,943$915,372
10%$102,422$379,684$1,130,244

The columns matter more than the rows. At 10 years the distance between a 4% assumption and a 10% one is $28,797. At 30 years it is $783,219 — on the same $180,000 of deposits. The longer the horizon, the more of the answer is the assumption rather than the saving.

Why the Last Year Is Worth More Than the First

Going from 29 to 30 years adds $46,901 to the $500-a-month plan ($563,084 becomes $609,985). Going from 39 to 40 adds $94,257 ($1,218,150 becomes $1,312,407). The deposit is $6,000 in both cases; the difference is the size of the balance the 7% is being applied to.

Put another way, the 40th year alone adds more than the first five years of the plan reach in total, which is $35,796. That is also why delay is expensive in a way that is hard to feel at the time: the year you skip at the beginning is the year you lose off the end, and the end is where the money is.

Investment Examples

Five plans, all run through this calculator at the same 7% assumption, so the only thing that differs is the deposit pattern.

PlanInputsProjected valueYou put inGrowth
Lump sum, left alone$10,000 · $0/mo · 20 yrs$40,387$10,000$30,387
Monthly only$0 · $500/mo · 20 yrs$260,463$120,000$140,463
Both together$10,000 · $500/mo · 20 yrs$300,851$130,000$170,851
Twice the deposit, ten fewer years$0 · $1,000/mo · 30 yrs$1,219,971$360,000$859,971
Half the deposit, ten more years$0 · $500/mo · 40 yrs$1,312,407$240,000$1,072,407

The last two rows are the case for starting early, stated as arithmetic rather than encouragement: $500 a month for 40 years beats $1,000 a month for 30 by $92,436, and reaches that number on $120,000 less of your own money. Time is the cheaper input.

Small Contributions, Long Horizon

Over 30 years at 7%, $50 a month projects to $60,999 on $18,000 paid in, $100 a month to $121,997 on $36,000, and $200 a month to $243,994 on $72,000. The output scales exactly with the deposit, because the annuity term is linear in the contribution — double the monthly amount and you double the projection, no more and no less.

That linearity has a practical consequence. The growth figure is identical in all three cases — 239% on top of contributions — so there is no threshold you have to clear before compounding starts working for you. A $100 plan you keep for 30 years beats a $400 plan you abandon in year four.

A Lump Sum With Nothing Added

Set the monthly contribution to 0 and you get pure compound growth. $5,000 at 8% for 10 years projects to $11,098 — $6,098 of growth, or 122% on top of what went in. At 7%, $10,000 reaches $20,097 in 10 years.

That last figure is a check on the Rule of 72, the mental shortcut that says money doubles in roughly 72 ÷ rate years. At 7% the rule predicts 10.3 years; this calculator has already passed the double at exactly 10, because a rate applied twelve times a year outruns the same rate applied once. The shortcut is close enough for conversation and slightly pessimistic for monthly compounding.

Modeling a Plan That Changes

The formula deposits the same amount every month, which no real plan does. You can work around that by running the projection in phases and carrying each result forward. Ten years of $500 a month at 7% projects to $86,542; enter that as the starting amount with $800 a month for another 20 years and the second phase projects to $766,262, on $278,542 of total deposits.

Chaining phases this way is the honest use of four inputs — it costs one extra run per change in contribution, and it stops the projection from pretending your income is flat for four decades.

What Return Should You Assume?

This is the only field where you can be wrong in a way that matters, and the calculator deliberately leaves it to you.

Why the Field Is Not Pre-Filled

A rate hardcoded into a tool is wrong for almost everyone using it: the defensible number depends on the mix of cash, bonds and equities you actually hold, the costs you pay, and how bad a decade you can sit through without selling. The SEC's own compound interest calculator on Investor.gov handles this by adding an "interest rate variance" field, which returns a band of outcomes rather than a single figure.

Do the same here by hand. Run 5%, 7% and 9%, and read the spread as your uncertainty: for the default plan that is $232,643 to $394,035. If a decision still looks sound at the bottom of your range, it is a decision. If it only works at the top, it is a hope.

Fees Come Out of the Number You Type

There is no fee input here, which means the return you enter must already be net of costs. Take one percentage point off for fund and platform fees — 7% down to 6% — and the 20-year default falls from $300,851 to $264,122. That is $36,729 of the outcome, on $130,000 of deposits, for a cost most people never see debited. Over 30 years of $500 a month the same one-point difference is $107,727, comparing $609,985 with $502,258.

The SEC states it plainly on its mutual funds page: "Even small differences in fees can mean large differences in returns over time." Find the expense ratio you are actually paying, subtract it from your assumption, and project the number that survives.

What a Single Average Hides

An assumed return applies the same growth to every month, which is the one thing markets never do. Investor.gov notes that large-company stocks as a group "have lost money on average about one out of every three years" — a fact no smooth projection can express. The line this page draws is the center of a distribution you cannot see, not a path anything will actually follow.

Order matters as soon as money is moving. If you neither add nor withdraw, only the average return decides where you finish. Once you are contributing monthly — or later, drawing down — two sequences with identical averages produce different balances, and the gap grows with the size of the flows.

For the other half of the question — what a finished balance can pay out, and for how long — use the Retirement Calculator.

Limits: When This Projection Does Not Apply

Four places where the number on screen is not the number you will live with. None of them make the tool useless; all of them change how much weight the output deserves.

It Draws a Straight Line Through a Jagged World

There is no volatility in this model, no drawdown, no rebalancing and no bad decade. Two portfolios that both average 7% over 20 years can finish a monthly-contribution plan far apart, because the months when the balance was large matter more than the months when it was small. The projection is a central estimate with the uncertainty stripped out.

The practical response is not to abandon the projection but to stop reading it to the dollar. "Somewhere around a quarter of a million, if the assumption holds" is what a 20-year $500-a-month run at 7% actually supports. The $260,463 is arithmetic precision, not forecasting precision.

No Taxes, and the Account Type Decides Those

The output is gross growth. A taxable brokerage account pays tax on dividends and on realized gains along the way, so its effective compounding rate is lower than the headline assumption. Tax-deferred and Roth accounts avoid that drag but come with annual contribution limits, withdrawal rules and penalties, and the IRS revises the figures most years — check the current limits at the source rather than from any calculator.

Model tax the way you model fees: lower the assumed return to approximate the drag in a taxable account, or accept that the projection describes a tax-sheltered account and plan the withdrawal rules separately.

Contributions Are Fixed, and Yours Probably Are Not

Every month gets the same deposit for the entire horizon. Real plans get raises, bonuses, pauses, a year with no contribution at all, and a house deposit that empties the account. If your contribution rises with income, this projection understates the outcome; if you stop for two years, it overstates it by more than the missed deposits alone, because those are the earliest dollars of whatever comes after.

Run the phases separately and carry each result into the next as a starting amount, as shown in the examples above. It is a small amount of extra work and it removes the least realistic assumption in the model.

The Hard Edges

Horizons run from 1 to 60 years and returns from 0% to 30%; anything outside those returns an instruction rather than a number. There is no withdrawal mode — a negative monthly figure is read as a positive contribution, since the parser strips the minus sign — so this tool cannot model retirement income, only the balance you arrive with.

It also assumes contributions land at the end of each month and that compounding is monthly. Both are conventions, both are stated, and both are worth knowing when a different calculator hands you a different answer on the same inputs.

Frequently Asked Questions

What will $500 a month be worth in 20 years?

At an assumed 7% with nothing to start, $500 a month projects to $260,463 after 20 years on $120,000 of deposits — growth adds $140,463. The same plan projects $205,517 at 5% and $333,943 at 9%. The $128,426 gap between those two is entirely the assumption, not the saving.

How do you calculate the future value of an investment?

Add two terms. Grow the starting amount by (1 + r)ⁿ, where r is the annual return ÷ 12 and n is the number of months. Then grow the contributions by PMT × [(1 + r)ⁿ − 1] ÷ r. For $10,000 plus $500 a month at 7% for 20 years: r = 0.00583333, n = 240, and the growth factor is 4.038739, so the $10,000 becomes $40,387 and the contributions become $260,463 — $300,851 in total, of which $170,851 is growth.

How long until my growth is bigger than what I put in?

For $500 a month at 7% from a zero balance, year 19: the projection is $237,125 on $114,000 contributed, so growth is $123,125. At 18 years growth is $107,361 against $108,000 paid in — 99% of contributions, just short. A larger starting balance moves the crossover earlier; a lower assumed return pushes it years later.

Is it better to invest a lump sum or monthly?

Money invested earlier compounds longer, so a lump sum you already hold should go in sooner rather than later. In the default run the $10,000 opening balance is 7.7% of total deposits but produces 13.4% of the $300,851 final balance. Monthly investing wins on behavior instead — the SEC defines dollar-cost averaging as "investing your money in equal portions, at regular intervals, regardless of the ups and downs in the market", which removes the timing decision entirely. This calculator handles both at once.

What annual return should I assume?

There is no correct number, only a range you have to justify. Run the same plan at 5%, 7% and 9% and treat the spread as your uncertainty — for $10,000 plus $500 a month over 20 years that is $232,643 to $394,035. Whatever you choose, subtract fund and platform fees first: one percentage point of cost takes that 20-year projection from $300,851 to $264,122.

Does this investment calculator account for inflation and taxes?

No — it projects gross, nominal growth. For today's dollars, either divide the result by (1 + inflation) raised to the years (3% over 20 years is a factor of 1.81, turning $300,851 into about $166,574), or enter a real return instead, such as 4% in place of 7%, which projects $205,613. For taxes, lower the assumed return to approximate the drag in a taxable account, or read the output as a tax-sheltered balance.

Why does my result differ from another investment calculator?

Two conventions. This tool compounds monthly and places each deposit at the end of its month. A calculator using beginning-of-month deposits multiplies the contribution term by (1 + r), turning $260,463 into $261,982 — about $1,519 more. A calculator that compounds annually and takes one $6,000 deposit a year lands at $245,973, roughly $14,490 lower over the same 20 years. Both gaps are small next to the difference between assuming 6% and 7%, which is $29,443 on the same plan.

How much do I need to invest to reach $1 million?

At an assumed 7% from a zero balance, $500 a month crosses $1,000,000 in year 37 ($1,048,272; year 36 is $971,823). Doubling the deposit to $1,000 a month gets there in year 28 ($1,038,688). Raising the assumption to 9% instead of the deposit lets $500 a month cross in year 31 ($1,007,494) — which shows how much of that milestone is decided by a number nobody controls.

Sources & References

  1. [1] Compound Interest Calculator — U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission (Investor.gov)
  2. [2] What Is Risk? — U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission (Investor.gov)
  3. [3] Mutual Funds — fees and expenses — U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission (Investor.gov)
  4. [4] Dollar Cost Averaging (glossary) — U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission (Investor.gov)
  5. [5] Geometric Series — Wolfram MathWorld
  6. [6] Retirement topics — 401(k) and profit-sharing plan contribution limits — Internal Revenue Service (IRS)

Methodology. This calculator uses standard financial formulas used across the industry. It is reviewed and maintained by the Vast Calculators editorial team.

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Disclaimer. This tool provides estimates for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional financial advice. Always consult a qualified financial advisor before making decisions about your finances.

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